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Rational SCCWE62G
Good day.
So I am getting a Service 25 error.
To start at the begining, one day I started getting a Service 25 error out of the blue. I checked the machine and there was water flow and it seemed to function. I contacted Tech Support for some assistance and the guy who answered the phone escelated my call and a services manager contacted me. He provided me with the same trouble tree as is in the manual (helpful?) and also the user name and password to run function tests.
I checked the various pumps and drain and noticed that the pump in question sounded like it was running but did not (as stated in the tree) shoot water. Tech support said to put water into the cabinet and see if it stays or drains when I press the close drain option. It continued to drain. So Tech support said it looks like both my pump and drain are bad.
After installing the cleaning pump (87.01742S) I ran a function test and water started to pump out like it should. Felt like this is good news and progress.
But when I ran a rinse cycle, the machine kept draining water and not running a cycle. Then abort came up.
I then replaced the drain valve ball valve (54.00.357). But the issue continued with the machine draining water. I then went through the function tests again and now the water does not steadily pump out of the top of the cabinet like it did before.
I then disconnected power and restarted the machine and tried to do a rinse. Then the new oddity arrised. Water started to just dump out of the bottom of the machine. But not from the drain. Some other opening which looks like from the steam generator. It had scale which was unusual and makes me believe it is from the steam generator. When I opened the left side panel I noticed water on the inside which is new as it was bone dry when I was working on it.
I dont really want to get the run around again from Rational Tech support so any assistance here first would be great.
Model Number is SCCWE62G
Serial #G62SH12062306851
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34 Replies
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This took me a bit since I was trying to catch up on “Stranger Things” (on NetFlix).
The pump you replaced is called the CleanJet pump. It’s a key component for cleaning the cooking compartment.
That drain valve you replaced only closes during a programmed cleaning. Otherwise, it remains open. When closed, it repurposes the quench box to be a reservoir for the oven’s cleaning solution.
During a CleanJet+Care cycle, the cleaning solution is a result of water and the diluted tablets being dispersed throughout the cooking compartment. This starts by squirting water in the quench box (from the CleanJet pump) from a nozzle above, then diverting that into the left-hinging pan support and onto the tablets (loaded by the user)loaded by the user)within the deep-draw baffle. The subsequent solution is then drawn into the blower wheel. All of that sprays about via the blower, then drains back down into the quench box. The CleanJet pump recirculates that solution for a pre-determined period. The computer then times out, drains it and it all starts over. This cycle repeats over and over per the the cleaning level the user had chosen.
SO…a service 25 results from the computer not detecting a proper load (measured in amps) on the blower motor for a lack of adequate cleaning solution being squirted into the blower wheel.
Other things you went into makes me think that the quench box has a bunch of crap in it, which will affect not only its ability to drain, but also the CleanJet pump’s ability to pull in the cleaning solution in for cleaning.
By the way. By design, the quench box has an overflow port which will spill over onto the floor…or whatever (vice making it into the drain pipe) should there be something blocking its normal drain passage.
SO…(I think I said that already), I suggest you remove the quench box cleanout cover and check for stuff in there. You might find scale or food debris is part of (or CAUSING) your problem.
FWIW: I’ve never worked on a WE (White Efficiency) version of a gas-fired SCC62. It may or may not be set up like my older (pre-2011) SCC oven. Nonetheless, the picture below should be close. The quench box cleanout cover in my picture requires removing the 120v:230v toroidal transformer in order to gain access to its location below the steam generator. You’ll know it when you see it.
WHEW! I had to edit that down because it was getting complicated and I had SO much else to explain.
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That is great to know. I will check that box. Seems like it was clogged as scale was coming out of it.
Do you have any idea what PSI this machine requires for it to “sense” it has water?
I feel like the filter is an issue and I am not going to get this sorted until it is replaced (ordered and rep acknowledged letter of auth but forgot it when came to property).
Oh, and my left side panel looks pretty close to this photo. A bit different on certain things but overall pretty close.
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If you’re in doubt of the water filters – then YES, do replace them. It’s best to do that once every six months anyway.
The oven does not measure water pressure. It measures water flow using a component called a water volume sensor. It is connected in line with the triple solenoid valve. It has a little wheel in it that spins and generates electrical pulses for the computer to record. Based upon the number of pulses it generates, the computer will determine how much water the steam generator takes in during a refill and therefore measures how much scale is displacing water NORMALLY required to fill a perfectly clean steam generator.
The water volume sensor also measures water flow during a programmed self-test leading into a CleanJet+Care cleaning cycle. If there is insufficient water flow detected during that self test, then the computer will abort a cleaning cycle due to there being inadequate water necessary to complete the cleaning cycle.
Here is a video on how that water volume sensor works:
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By the way. The White Efficiency oven does NOT have an exclusive bar graph for measuring scale, but you can still see a representation of it by going into the technician level of programming to view their charts in there.
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That is good to know.
It has aborted a few times. And after I disconnected the water filter and put it back in, the machine said it didnt have water. So I am guessing filter.
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So the water filter was replaced, but it still says it has no water. Water is being dumped out the drain when I do a rinse w/ no tabs cycle.
I can run the care pump, the fill valve, the clean jet pump.
I replaced the clean jet pump and drain valve as stated earlier.
The water pressure drops when the oven starts its rinse w/ no tabs cycle but the various pumps dont seem to engage.
Any idea? You said something about a sensor that pulses to determin whether or not there is water going to the machine. Is that the triple solenoid?
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Nevermind, I see that you said it is in line with the triple solenoid.
So my question then is, is the no water coming from a lack of water through the qench box or through that sensor?
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On PartsTown, I am seeing the following sensors, one is for water and the other is pressure.
I believe we are talking about the first one below.
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That pressure switch is for detecting air pressure differential within the cooking compartment. It does so for determining humidity level during a cooking process. It has nothing to do with water pressure.
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The NO WATER indication results from the water probe in the steam generator not detecting water after an appropriate fill time has elapsed.
If you’re seeing water pour down the drain, that sounds like the generator is being overfilled for the lack of sensing water in it.
Check your water probe and wiring. It could be that the probe is scaled up, the probe is bad, there’s a faulty connection between it & the board or ground….or a bad board.
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Well I feel like an idiot.
I saw that there had been at some point a leak of sorts and covered the connection in some greasy substence. So I pulled apart the connection and cleaned it with contact cleaner. I forgot to put it back together.
Anyway waiting for the machine to dry out, because of course when I unscrewed the probe the steam generator which was full of water leaked all over the place. Water has been vacuumed. Time for drying and check if it works.
(head slam against wall)
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Yes that was bad. I have personally NEVER made such an error…RIGHT?
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So I ran it in TECLEVEL through a cleanjet cycle and the service 25 went away.
I decided to give it a strong clean, and it gave me a service 33-1. Looking at the ignitor, it looked rough and the wire connecting to the electrode appeared to be partially severed.
I found a used spare and after it finishes it 30min abort cycle I will try again to see if I am error free.
But I believe this is the end of the issues on this oven. If it gives me the same error I will order a new ignitor and go from there.
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of course, someone else kept a bad ignitor on the shelf?!?
Anyway ordered a new one, should be here shortly so I can see if I resolved this thing.
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So I replaced the ignitor which ended up being clearly bad (broke in half while lifting it).
But I still got a service 33. Gas was good before, so I dont have a reason to believe it went bad by itself.
Any ideas.
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Turn off the gas source. Remove that new ignitor from the generator, rest its ground electrode against a good ground and check for spark. It should be a constant, steady, crisp and strong blue spark.
Here’s why I suggest you check that.
If it had previously attempted to push a high voltage spark through a bad electrode or ignition wire and couldn’t find ground across its intended path (the gap) or some other less harmful path, the high voltage might have sought out another path to ground within the ignition control itself.
If that happened, it probably ruined the module. I’ve seen that happen with numerous ignition modules of various makes.
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