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Does anyone have experience and/or advice on reworking an orifice down to a smaller size?
I have an orifice part # 152018 for a Groen Convection Oven drilled out to 46. Instead of spending hundreds of dollars to replace three orifices, I’ve been told I could rework the metal to hopefully get it down to 54.
The only idea that comes to mind is a pin hammer.
Any advice or experience that could be shared would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! -
10 Replies
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You can drill them out bigger and insert a spud, then drill to size, but I don’t think anyone does that anymore.
Best bet is bring the orifice to a foodservice repair shop, and beg for replacements from the junk drawer. We always had all kinds of odds and ends of orifices near the workbench.
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I’m honestly trying to teach myself how to do these things in shop here. Repair shops are ridiculously expensive and unfortunately never feel friendly enough to help most of the time and/or push me towards ordering new. Oahu repair shops run quite the monopoly.
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I’ve heard of people brazing them up and redrilling to size, but without a lathe to insure the new hole was concentric, I’d be leery.
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Aloha! I LOVED my three years living on Oahu!
I once reduced the size of some orifices by using a pin punch and hammer to pound the spud face from the inside while using something suitable as an anvil against the outside. I think the spuds I was reworking then were “outies” (1st pic) – so, not recessed (second pic):
At the price they want for those, I’d certainly give it a try. The worst that can happen is they might whistle…or you screw them up and have to order replacements.
I don’t know what oven these go on, but keep in mind that, if you’re doing a conversion, there are other components requiring a conversion as well.
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Haha! Nice to make your acquaintance! I’m sure you are more than familiar with the repair tech community over here in that case. Not to say they’re bad, they’re awesome and good friends of mine BUT why pay them when I can (hopefully successfully) solve the problem in house? and as you’ve mentioned worst case scenario I’m forced to order new anyway.
But back to your response, yes what you are suggesting is exactly what I had in mind but I thoroughly appreciate you breaking down the steps for me. As i’m self taught with less than three years experience, I’m eager to hear the ins and outs from anyone who has time to explain. I’ve attempted it before like you mentioned you had but I was so impatient i tossed it and bought a new one…in this case its much more worth my time and effort.I was flabbergasted at the price jump from a typical orifice to the three needed (yikes!). So giving it a go on working it smaller is definitely Plan A.
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For that price you may be able to find a small machine shop to make them. Or if you own a lathe.
Remember that the finish product has to have a clean hole with a sharp square corner to create the 10 degree fuel cone in the carburetor venturi for the mixing to be proper and consistent. It also has to have the proper depth of cylindrical bore for shaping the cone. If you try to peen it down you will shorten this. Causing a varied and wide cone of fuel. This would mean the orifiice would have to be placed deeper into the venturi for proper mixing.
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Yeah, tho I’ve never done it, the old timers told me to fill in the hole with solder and re drill it to the desired size.
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That is a possibility, but it also requires a fixture or lathe to clean up the back bore and face so that you have a true cone.
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Ar you converting from nat to propane?
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If so send me a picture of the orifices the model and serial number of the groen oven and I can probably help you out
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