Blodgett steamer SC-10E no lights or timer operation

[ectofix]

Now…WHY would you order new lights and timers?  You’d already stated their input voltages in an earlier statement and obviously none of them are getting proper input.

[burtonmac]

Exactly!!  That may be bc of your statement on moving the thermostat ccw.  Then you said all lights may come on.  Correct??!!

[ectofix]

As long as those thermostats aren’t bad.  They get that way.  Or maybe some wiring issues.  Only the proper use of a VOM, ammeter, pyrometer, a schematic, your knowledge & experience…and following proper troubleshooting procedures – will  YOU know for sure. 

 

FWIW:  I’m not THERE to sniff out and see what’s actually going on, so don’t assume that everything I propose is the actual problem.  I’m HERE…from my arm chair with an adult beverage in my hand – merely from to my own desire to help other technicians.  Doing so while scrolling on-line through manuals, diagrams, pictures…and reflecting upon my own twenty years of experience. With my not being THERE, that’s all I got to go on in order to help YOU…the one who’s looking to get paid to resolve this issue.

 

So, you do what you think is right.  Throw parts at it…lights, timers and even thermostats – whatever trips your trigger. 

 

Personally, I TROUBLESHOOT a problem to narrow it down to wherever it tries to hide.  I don’t haphazardly throw parts at something because I “think” that “might” be it or because of what someone else says.  If I do “think” I found it, then I’ll try another angle to verify my suspicions.  That’s part of a six-step troubleshooting technique that I learned forty years ago…and still use everyday. 

 

As you might guess, I won’t replace something because of what someone else says.  Even following a previous diagnosis behind one of my peers – other technicians, I’ll CONFIRM their diagnosis before installing the parts they’d ordered.

 

Anyway.  I’m outta here.  I hope all this helps you.

[burtonmac]

Enjoy your weekend my friend.  Ive only been doing this type of work for a year.  But not bragging.  They have called out 2 different  techs and at least four service calls later.  No one has been able to even get the steam generators working.  So at least I have the steam going constantly but trying to pin down why the lights and timers are not functioning.

 

Thanks for you input.  Greatly appreciated!!

[fixbear]

First off, thanks for sharing your schematic. I see several things that have to be satisfied for the machines to work.  First off, water pressure.  Next water level Everything hinges on the water level.  Mineral build up on the probes may give lot’s of headaches. 

Next is thermostat 9.  Note that it has to be open for the ready light to light. When close, relay 11 is energised and the bypass wire that goes to the top NO contact provides power to the contactor and the other side of the ready light so that it will be out.  Door switch will provide power to the NC lower contact,  Only if thermostat 9 is satisfied will it provide power to the timer 12. Via the door switch. and NC terminal relay11.   Also the continuous steam switch 24  (optional) (labeled cooking mode)

Power goes into the timer on terminal 1, back out to the upper NC terminal R11 and then the  main contactor. Ready light will go out. Terminal 3 on the timer also powers the cooking light and steam solenoid.  Also if there is a load compensation pressure switch, (optional) it will start and stop the timer if steam pressure isn’t present it spec. Like cooking solenoid not closing or door gasket leaking.

 

Like Ectofix say’s, the Thermostat at a proper setting is key on this. And a properly working door switch. Hopefully now you understand why.