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Deep fryer’s got issues
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olivero wrote:
What is a rough ignition of the main burners? What’s it supposed to look like? I’ve looked at all 3 and they all seem the same to me, none is more violent than the other.
You would know, a large VROOM. Any flame roll out to the frount? Is the regulator vent line clean?
You can clamp your millivolt meter to the pilot valve and watch it change as you adjust the pilot.
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Vent line is clear, no flame roll out. Nothing looks out of the ordinary.
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I agree. This needs to be looked at from the electrical aspect. If you light your pilot with the t-pile Leeds off the valve and it has been in flame for more then two min then the pile should be producing around 750 Mvdc. When you hook the wires to the valve and allow the pilot to be on by itself then you should see any where between 150 and a 200 mvdc drop from the starting reading. Same when you turn the main burners on. Your mvdc reading with burners on hold be greater than 250 mvdc. If it is less you have a restricted pilot. Rarely have I seen a valve cause this unless it has a blocked vent tube. That would be shown when the burners turn on and the pilot flame shrinks. For me I would bypass all switches and see if the problem continues. Note this is a dangerous test and you need to watch the oil temp. I would look at loose wire connection to be you root cause. Then I would look out side the box to see what temp the gas valve is being subjected to. Post picks and maybe one of us can see something to get you in a better place.
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This sounds to be intermittent. Attach your MVdc meter to the pilot valve, Take a plastic handle screwdriver and wiggle the wires, tap the safety, tap the valve. A recording meter makes this easier to spot a variation.
On a side, I seem to remember that at one point in time Frymaster had to up-size the pilot wire gauge from a problem like this. How old of a unit is this.
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fixbear wrote:
On a side, I seem to remember that at one point in time Frymaster had to up-size the pilot wire gauge from a problem like this. How old of a unit is this.
Per the serial numbers he provided, they’re 2009 models.
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olivero wrote:
What is a rough ignition of the main burners? What’s it supposed to look like? I’ve looked at all 3 and they all seem the same to me, none is more violent than the other.
Here’s a video I made years ago of a target burner lighting off:
Their design DOES seem rough when compared to standard burner systems. On those, you gotta be sure there are no clogged burner orifices. If there’s a blockage, then they become even MORE entertaining.
There’s also a requirement to adjust each of the target faces so the side targets are 3/4″ from the frypot. The rear target setting is 1″, but it may be affixed to the frypot assembly and not adjustable.
If you’d removed the burner assembly, you will need to check that after re-assembly.
Here in a few hours, I’ll upload a video for you of a PPT presentation explaining all that.
EDIT: Nevermind about my uploading another vid. It was on a stand-alone millivolt system. Yours isn’t. Your model number indicates that it’s a fryer which uses a temperature control which supplies 24v to the main valve. So…the thermopile only powers the pilot valve.
I don’t know if we’d covered this, but make sure ALL connections from the thermopile, through the hi-limit and to the gas valve are good, clean and tight. ANY poor connection is a huge obstacle to a 750mV power source, since there’s not enough “push” behind that low of a voltage to punch through an iffy connection.
EXAMPLE: You ever have a flashlight go stupid on you and required that you had to shake it? WELL…a single AAA battery has TWICE the voltage output as a thermopile.
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ectofix wrote:
Here’s a video I made years ago of a target burner lighting off:
Little bit lean eh
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That should be after the wiring issues.
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I’ve already gone through all the wiring, replaced crimps and such, I don’t find anything wrong with the wiring.
I think the pilot is getting blown out somehow, when the unit just sits for 4 days, pilots are on but when they start using it, then it becomes an issue so it must be related to operation somehow.
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Not really probable on the Frymasters. You miss what i’m trying to tell you. heat saturation and vibration influence connections. perhaps inside a limit or valve. Like contact points. Or you may have hidden heat damage to the wiring that shorts. I have also seen a valve coil that was fine on testing until heat saturation and you give it a tap. They locate that valve in a bad place. Your DVOM is your best friend in this circumstance. Go over it step by step.
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