Supera F3R-1 evaporator fans not running at all.

[fixbear]

Yes you can safely jump 1 and 2 to see if fans run.  They will. But you can’t leave it jumped, because during the defrost phase it will heat the whole box instead of just the evaporator. In other words, you will destroy product.with vast load changes and overload the compressor. 

[albumen]

Good points…yes it was just to test the connectivity and that they run to eliminate bad wire inside foam or sheathing.  Totally understand cannot do that and impacts but I appreciate the reminder.

 

Thank you.

[albumen]

Checked the voltage on the DC coming out the back…here are the readings with the DC in fan on mode:

#1: 118.6v

#2: 160.7v What the heck!!!?!?!  Within 30 seconds it ranged from 130.2 – 194.3v but stabilized the most at 160.7 v.

#3: 119.0v

#4:118.8v

#5: 0v

#6:118.6 v

#7:0v

#8:na

checked voltage at the fans…same 160.7

Where could it be getting that type of voltage?  It was zero last night when I checked it…but if I wiggle the probe this is what I get…wacky voltages.  No other line does this.  Going to look at the DC and see if something inside is amiss.

[fixbear]

You have a house or feed neutral problem to the machine.  Check at the wall plug for 230/120.  leg to leg-230 or so, leg to neutral 120,  other leg to neutral 120.  and neutral to ground.  Then plug in the machine and check inside the main block. Especialy the neutral to ground.

 

Sounds like a open or high resistance neutral.  Lighting will feed back threw the fans, but the fans can’t get enough to run.

[fixbear]

Oh, This machine does require a 4 prong plug with a separate ground and neutral to function correctly.

[albumen]

Wall outlet                     

leg to leg: 239

 

y leg to neu:121

x leg to neu:120.9

neu to gnd: 0

 

Main block?  This unit spiders out to various feeds and never runs into a main terminal connection.  There is one area that feeds the compressor and condenser fans but is isolated to some degree.  I can check that but I did check the main line prior to the split to the compressor feeds and the controller feeds…120v on both sides and gnd 2 neu: 0 volts the same as the wall.  Going to pull the DC and look at it to see if I see anything funky as that is where I get strange readings.  I did jumper the fans to the condersor fan feeds to see if they run and they did…let it go for 15 mins…box dropped from 68 to 45 no problem so I shut it down and pulled the wire.  I am considering it is a controller problem.  Looking at it now.

[albumen]

DC Controller terminal block.  The #2 hole within the terminal block is loose within the block.  Meaning it moves enough to cause swings in the voltage…the fans run intermittently when they get proper power.  If I wedge my probe in a certain area…the machine runs.  I think the terminal block on the controller has vibrated loose on port 2 from the board or sustained a power jolt.  I saw no burning on the motherboard though when I took the controller casing off.  If this is the case, I have no idea how to fix it other than buy a new or used one.  Any ideas?

[fixbear]

The problem I see from you test on the DC. The I don.t know what you used for a reference point to make your measurements.  Chassis ground perhaps or terminal 2 to 5.  If the DC was closed for the fan, 1 and 2 will be the same. Being 2 was high ,. it goes to the fans,  then the door switches, then the neutral line.  Because it was high, you either have a induced created voltage with no load, or a cross feed from the red line to a open neutral. 5 goes directly to neutral (white) line.

 

Be very careful on this machine if you use their power switch, as it switches only the neutral and black line.(Double pole switch)  Red is always hot directly  to the compressor and condenser fans. So it is hot even when off.

 

While we are on that, You may also have a resistance in one leg of the power switch causing the high reading as it is a neutral between your control/fans and the power plug.  You definitely have a open controller, but I am concerned about the stray voltage and what it can do with only a 5 amp relay. Destroy a new one?

[fixbear]

The terminal block is soldered to the board. These controllers are know for failure, buy a new one.  But measure a voltage over the power switch white to white under load to make sure the switch has no resistance on the neutral leg. 

[albumen]

I used chassis ground.  I noticed it was hot all around when I started separating wires…tested and saw HOT even though off.  So I unplug it from the wall each time.