Supera F3R-1 evaporator fans not running at all.

[albumen]

solder looks good on the board…but the link above is looser than the others….could just be a symptom not a cause due to voltage variation.  Will look at the switch. Thank you.

[fixbear]

What model and make of controller?

[albumen]

In the off but powered position of the switch white to white…it reads 55.9 v .  When switched on and powered on white to white 0V.  Testing Ohms on switch…indicates working as should.

 

Model and Make of controller: XR06CX – 4N1F1.. 

[fixbear]

By the numbers it has to be a Dixell.  Sold by Emerson, made in china,  Used by Norlake,  Altro-Sham and others. 

 

As for the voltage on the neutral leg when open,  You either have a bleed from the compressor contractor going threw the winding or a capacitor. The Compressor contractor is a single  pole. Then somehow there is a conductive path across the contractor. The only other senario I can think of is the power switch is not disconnecting the black line curcuit and your reading munion heater power bleed.

 

Check black to white on both sides of switch in both on and off positions. Then black to oppisite white with switch off both ways. That will tell us where it’s coming from..

[albumen]

Ok…i will check that

 

 

Sent from my Samsung Smart Phone

[ectofix]

albumen wrote:

 

I used chassis ground.  I noticed it was hot all around when I started separating wires…tested and saw HOT even though off.  So I unplug it from the wall each time.  

DISCLAIMER:  I didn’t read ALL of this thread, but this statement alarmed me.

 

I caution you to NEVER use chassis ground as a reference while making voltage readings …as the NORM…unless you are absolutely CERTAIN that ground is a part of that particular circuit.   Doing so will send you on a wild goose chase!

 

I can elaborate if necessary.  Let me know and I will.  I’ve simply seen too many EXPERIENCED techs make that very same mistake.  They tend to get defensive when I correct them, but I don’t give up and they eventually get it.

 

Albumen, I know you’re an owner/operator with some FAIRLY creditable knowledge.  But I don’t know what you DON’T know.

[albumen]

    Voltages                                     OFF         ON

Blk (top) to White (top):                   48            120.5

Blk (btm) to white (btm):                  56.3           0

Blk (top) to White (btm):                  120.7        120.6

Blk (btm) to white (top):                    0              120.8

[albumen]

I appreciate the feedback…no anger here as I am not an electrician always willing to learn.   If you could elaborate in a short iteration, I would appreciate that to gain further understanding.  However, I can see your point as to keep the test within the limits of the circuit you are working on right?    

[fixbear]

This is not right in any form.  Which side does the switch get feed from, top or bottom?  It sounds like from what you have said that it is cross wired on the switch.  One side in the off should be 120. pole to pole. The other 0 This cross wire may be part of what is going on. . Is the switch a 2 pole single throw, or two pole double throw.  (6 terminals or 4) that they are only using 4 

 

Have you got a wiggin?  I want you to safely test the ground, neutral for continuity.  Don’t like the stray voltage at the switch

 

Are the evaporator fans ECDM motors?

[albumen]

I agree these voltages are not right in any form.  This switch remains illuminated in the on/off position which I thought was weird.  Is it suppose to be that way???  How long has it been like that…I do not know.  I have not turned it off to check…it is never empty so it is not turned off ever.  I bought it from an auction where it had damage in transport.  The unit was checked out by professional people for AC leaks and electrical components and given an all clear.  It has ran for me untouched for 3 years.  

 

Cross wired: if so, it has been like that for a long time…maybe it finally gave up if that is the case?  

Switch:  I believe it is a 2 pole double throw.  Here is picture.  They are using only 4 terminals of the 6.  

Motors: Sorry Fixbear…I do not know how to tell.  We are rapidly reaching my abilities.  Tell me how to check I will do my best.

Wiggins:  I do not have one but I can get one which would be a good idea here.  Just so we are on the same page what I have seen referred to as a wiggins is a tester with spring loaded leads so to test close proximity without touching…is that what you were referring to?  I currently have a digital multimeter that I use for all voltage checks.

 

In this picture the “ON” is the top of the switch.  Off is the bottom when referring to my previous voltages I submitted.  Maybe that will help clarify the above readings.  Feed here is coming from the power plug.