ectofix
Forum Replies Created
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Where the F**K did THIS come from???!!!!!!!!!!
ONCE AGAIN:
I wasn't able to reply to Ryan's thread on the Doyon oven so I “started” a reply through the ASK A QUESTION button.
H-O-W-E-V-E-R…(as you might surmise from my incomplete INITIAL statement) I had decidedly bowed out without actually hitting the POST button. Therefore, it NEVER should have been seen here.
Yet…SOMEHOW this forum's platform remembered what I had typed and, days later, POSTED what I DIDN'T – simultaneously with a reply I'd had actually POSTED in another thread (check the date/time stamps).
SO. I'm outta here!
Good luck @lizzy and your TechTOWN. This PLATFORM and its foibles isn't worth my aggravation.
Sorry @fixbear.
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WOW! That's an OLD slicer made back in the 1930's to 50's! Cool!
YES. For safety reasons that weren't observed back then, securely connect the green (or green/yellow) wire to the slicer's chassis. As such, should the hot (black) wire inadvertently short to the frame by way of a rub-through, it will trip a circuit breaker (which you WANT it to) instead of making the frame a 115v shock hazard.
Be sure that the hot and neutral wires are routed appropriately so they don't get rubbed through due to vibration or from contact with moving parts. Along with suitable routing to avoid contact with moving parts, you can use wire ties and/or automotive plastic conduit (loom) to protect wiring you feel might be susceptible to rub-though from contact with sharp edges within the chassis.
I ALSO suggest to NOT use wire nuts when installing your new power cord since those can work loose from vibration. There are several styles of crimp-type butt connectors you can use. I like the shrink-tubing type, but conventional butt connectors can be used too when filling in the connector ends with some dielectric grease to keep moisture out. Those can ALSO be gotten from an auto parts store.
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What you need to do is write down the make & model of the oven.
THEN, call and give that information to your local commercial food equipment service company so they schedule a service call. They will send someone with the skills and tools necessary to troubleshoot and fix your oven.
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That is a very basic millivolt system that can be easily troubleshot using a VOM and manometer.
So you're asking whether it needs a new thermostat. It COULD be. The proper use of a VOM/manometer would answer that question. However, other possibilities could be a loose wire connection, a bad wire crimp, a corroded wire connection, a faulty gas valve or poor gas flow to the burners. Heck, even a broken Unitrol knob could be the problem (not unusual on RobertShaw gas valves when the knob becomes difficult to turn).
Since I'll assume you don't a VOM, a manometer or basic skills/knowledge to determine how the electrical and gas parts work, I'll simply suggest you go in there to check all electrical connections, then go behind the fryer to check that the gas is fully turned on and properly connected. If that doesn't find ‘n fix your problem, then you'll need to call a service company.
If I am wrong about your skills/knowledge, then here's a manual which includes an electrical schematic and some specific operational parameters for you to test.
177ff300-518_manual.pdf 1 MB PDF - Click to view Copy Download Link
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Then there's THIS:
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Why do you ask that HERE? We're technicians who REPAIR the ovens. For questions regarding programming and operation, contact the manufacturer.
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Repairing printed circuit boards isn't even a consideration for field repair techs. Otherwise, even if you're an “in-house” tech who might be thinking about it, newer boards using SMT and multi-layer layouts make it virtually impossible to repair printed circuit boards anymore. I'm sure that ignition control falls into that category.
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As far as I can tell, those aren't sold in the U.S.
Here's a manual I found on the interwebs that might help:
ac_106.pdf 1 MB PDF - Click to view Copy Download Link
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I think I know what happened here, and this website's disfunctions caused it.
Looking back, I remember that I had tried replying to the ORIGINAL Scotsman CU50 acting erratically question on 28 August, but this site wouldn't let me. Therefore I attempted replying to it as a new thread using the ASK A QUESTION button. THAT wasn't working either, so I gave up.
FIVE DAYS LATER, when I posted a reply to the Manitiwoc A310 question in Sept 2, this website somehow REMEMBERED and harvested my Scotsman REPLY and posted it simultaneously! How do I know it was simultaneously? Because THIS thread's initial date/time stamp is the exact same as my reply to the Manitowoc question!
THE OTHER QUIRK I continuously must deal with whenever I COPY & PASTE something into my replies. When I paste something here, they always get DOUBLED (see this thread's initial post for reference). AND, as is the case above, a pasted LINK becomes unusable.
HELLO Lizzy! Here's more problems for you!
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Here's another one. This is a link to another thread here that you need to read:
https://www.techtownforum.com/forums/discussion/scotsman-cu50-acting-erratically-reply/