[moldypickle]

Olivero,

We had the same steamer here at my facility.   Had the same issue.  The original call was for flame failure.  It was dripping down on to the ignitor once it came up to pressure. I could also hear the hiss but couldn't tell where it was coming from.  We decided to order a new boiler to the tune of around 5 grand if I remember. Pulled the steamer from the kitchen and disconnected everything from the boiler.  The leak was coming from the weld around one of the flame tubes.  Also had corrosion.  We actually found it was easier to bend 2 tabs down at the rear of it and pull it through the back of the steamer.  I'm not sure if that was the best way but seemed the easiest.   I think any way is a huge job to remove that boiler.  FWIW, we have since removed that unit due to corrosion issues around the steam tubes in the cabinets.  We have replaced it with the groen  ssb-10G.  Boilerless.  As far as I'm concerned in 2 years the only breakdowns  I've had to fix were replace a handle and clear the drain.  

[moldypickle]

Ok…  This is gas, boilerless steamer.  about 8 months old

[moldypickle]

FWIW,, I had been meticulously trying to program our bunn pots to be perfectly topped off.  Multiple tries of water only or water plus grounds. Over and over.  Recently had bunn training with some our new liquid coffee dispensers and was able to inquire with the instructor on an easier way to gets the pots full.  He asked why do I want the pot full.  Guess I didn't have a good answer other than that it just made sense to me.  His answer was to follow the recipe from the coffee manufacturer. Whatever ounces of water they say to use set the pot to that.  Whether it's full or not. Who cares. Lol. Seems so simple now.  Not sure if that's what you're aiming for but figured I'd share some humility 

[moldypickle]

Slicer is still running strong, gets used daily, electricians checked the GFI and no issue there either (I suppose we could just replace it) although they are telling me that they never have to reset the GFI.  2 identical 3813 slicers side by side, each with a dedicated circuit.  I can swap GFI's easily, trouble still won't re-appear.  I would like to at least see something fail.  I haven't resorted to parts changer– just yet   

[moldypickle]

So ectofix  I checked polarity on the GFI, that's all ok, and i tripped it while running and it powered right back up when reset so I'm not quite sure what their “No volt release feature” means.  There is an identical slicer right next to it so if it fails again I can swap boards.   

I do have a fluke 287 that i can dig out to monitor it and it is on a dedicated circuit.  

BTW I checked my W/O history on the slicer and I did have to change the fuse on the board for the knife motor about 2 years ago but has been fine ever since.

I too have recently replaced the PCB in one of our legacy mixers.  Thanks again for your input guys

[moldypickle]

   Yeah the membrane switch seems fine.  I noticed the small green led behind the sharpen button wouldn't be lit until i removed power for a little bit.  The only thing i questioned was in the user manual they say “The No Volt Release feature, standard, requires the slicer to be restarted after a power interruption.”  (whatever restarted means).

   This slicer has too be in the home position and gauge plate has to be open for it to run. I found the same part number in my parts manual as you provided but with a very different price.  Even on partstown list price is $765.  ML # 136135