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  • fixbear

    Member
    March 29, 2018 at 8:19 pm

    being you are in TN, olivero is in FL, andi’m in NY I’m not sure.  However, if they ship him a new oven and we are going to blow up the old one. a road trip has to be planned.

  • olivero

    Member
    March 30, 2018 at 8:36 am

    Hahahahah!

     

    That’s awesome. I showed it to my office and the chefs, they all burst out laughing.

  • olivero

    Member
    March 30, 2018 at 8:37 am

    I did, sent them everything I found.

  • olivero

    Member
    March 30, 2018 at 10:45 am

    Hahaha.

     

    You guys crack me up. 

     

    I am planning on going through the whole unit again tomorrow morning, just take it from the top and make sure I didn’t miss anything stupid.

  • badbozo2315

    Member
    March 30, 2018 at 7:12 pm

    >being you are in TN, olivero is in FL, andi’m in NY I’m not sure.

    >a road trip has to be planned.

     

    Count me in, from Georgia! Today’s my last day, I can be anywhere in the country in a few days. 

     

    Looking through everything, again, I keep thinking that you’ve got too much flamage going on. I mean you know how hot it needs to be to warp the ignition electrode set like that? And you are getting 30 microamps; the Rationals see like 5.25 or so, and it’s the exact same style burner, very similar ignitor/gnd set. It seems like it’s not burning at the surface of the the burner mesh, but up about an inch or two higher than it should.

     

    I say this because we got a bulletin from Rational to drop the max fan speed setting (=btu input) to it’s minimum setting the computer allows at each unit we visit, on the air heat. Stop em from burning out so much?

     

    If it were my unit, I’d either tape over half of the burner blower air input hole, and run it like that for a while, or if the software permits, reduce the high fire blower speed to drop those btu’s down.

  • badbozo2315

    Member
    March 30, 2018 at 7:33 pm

    >22 ohm resistor

    Naa, that symbol is “u” for micro (farad? capacitor?), not the, ah, omega (?) ohm symbol.

  • olivero

    Member
    March 30, 2018 at 8:22 pm

    Lol, the computer does allow to drop the RPM’s of the combustion blower which would reduce the BTU input I guess.

     

    I would need that said through Convotherm though. The thing that I don’t get is that its been working somewhat okay throughout periods of time so for me to change something that’s been a certain way since day one to solve a problem I am seeing now doesn’t sound right to me.

  • olivero

    Member
    March 30, 2018 at 8:23 pm

    Interesting. A Capacitor…. I wonder why.

  • fixbear

    Member
    March 31, 2018 at 9:59 am

    Not a capacitor.  They can’t make a cap out of ceramic due to the high heat needed to fuse the ceramic.  After much searching, it is a 22 micro ohm 4.3 amp resistor.( real low resistance) rated at 200 C. Very very special value for a micro.ohm resistor..  Anything with a higher resistance would bother a milliamp current flow for the burner control.

     

    And my eyes are going cross from all the 100’s of thousand passives I had to go through to find it.

  • fixbear

    Member
    March 31, 2018 at 10:02 am

    The heat required to soften near melting of a electrode got to be up there.  like you said, the tip of the blue had to be right at the igniter.  Wish I knew what alloy the rods are.

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