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The iCombi Pro units have updated service codes.

In your case: 34.32 ignition control fault

73.32 ignition box

73.8 pump control board

always verify good wiring connections before changing any components. Has software been updated?

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in diagnostic mode, check clima info. if there is no data, try running a manual calibration. also make sure the battery is close to 3 volts.

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By this description, it sounds as though the SHOW MODE is activated. In user settings, touch the TOOLS icon. If the oven icon is red, press and hold DEMO mode icon for ten seconds.

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I know I'm a little late to reply, but those newer knobs are almost indestructible.  The black plastic inserts do tend to melt or deform over time.  The insert is available separately     Southbend 4440729 for a 6-pack of gas D stem inserts, or for a single insert use Star 2L-Z15445.  If the insert is for a Robertshaw thermostat D-shaft, use Star 2L-Z20935.   Keep the customer happy, no more pliers to turn equipment on or off!

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As far as a set period for replacement of the hoses, I can say it does not exist.  There are many factors contributing to the failure of the hoses.  There is one user in particular, where I was replacing the door gasket every 90 days, and the steam tube every 180 days.  This high maintenance customer insisted in using the combi in “hot air mode” at 475 degF at 0% humidity, high RPM in constant mode.  The rubber components simply crumble over time.  Other users of frequent failure of the cleanjet hoses, was due to multiple batches daily of roasting prime rib.  The fatty residue would erode the suction and discharge hoses from the inside, as ECTOFIX stated, without squeezing the hose, they would appear to be in perfect condition visually.  So yeah, squeeze those hoses, like the Charmin Man would !

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ARES, you may want to reach out to your local Rational service agent.  They will most likely be able to help you out with this situation.  Save all the stainless side rails for inspection.   Be sure to use a ‘shop-vac' to remove all of the glass shards, as well as capturing any glass making it past the drain screen. If you have any doubt, after thoroughly cleaning the cabinet interior, trolley cart, and air baffle plate, hose down the interior, then open the quench box. You can shine a light in there to look for any shiny remnants of glass.  Better safe than sorry… if a glass nugget gets pushed thru the wash pump and lodges in the cleanjet exit tube you will certainly regret it!   Most likely you will have to replace the door and trolley gasket since they are prone to trapping those fine glass particles. 

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To properly address

Each of these

Challenging situations,

Leave more specific data

Especially the serial# which is

Very important.

Eventually we will

Lead you to your info

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Those are great readings to have.  I find it helpful to leave that documentation inside the control panel where it can be used for comparison purposes.  Which will lead me to question #5:  what are your combustion readings TODAY ?  look for some kind of a change to lead you to the excessive heat at the ignitor area.  Additionally, is it at all possible that something could have fallen into the flue outlet for the heat exchanger?   Even small bits of foil, loose hardware or water from hood cleaners can cause funky back pressures within the combustion chamber.  

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question #1:  do you have a combustion analyzer?

question #2:   what is your static and dynamic gas pressure for this unit?

question #3:   what is your elevation?

question #4:  LP or nat. gas?

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Keep in mind, there is only one temp sensor.  There will never be a call for heat for just the top or for just the bottom heat exchanger.  As for the two blowers circulating heat equally from one working heat exchanger,  it simply can't.

 

 

 

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