[gregct]

Definitely need to make sure the terminals are nickel plated high temp rated terminals and not ‘everyday general use' with nylon insulation around the crimp and that all the connection points are thoroughly cleaned with emory cloth or another suitable abrasive. 

 

https://www.delcity.net/store/High-Temperature-Ring-Terminals/p_806250.h_806253.r_IF1003?mkwid=s&crid=38094426869&mp_kw=&mp_mt=&gclid=CjwKCAjwy7vlBRACEiwAZvdx9pLGt54G9uouRg2pJcWWLbUGPlZpILTC1KbxT6hoLGoyvI2nBQ7waBoCqzMQAvD_BwE

 

Is what the terminals should look like, a general use terminal will probably last 8 hrs or less at the temps expected. We normally take it to the next level, and pull the next wire gauge up sized high temp wire in the first time one burns up, seems to help although if originally wired with 12 ga, its a little tough to pull in 10's but the heat reduction even if minimal does make a difference. 

[gregct]

You have to pull the burner and the pilot assembly out, then there's enough room to reach the clevis pin on the hinge pin for the door spring trunnion, tight fit, not at all comfortable if the oven isn't at room temperature and don't be surprised if there's blood involved when the job is done.

[gregct]

CFESA also now has a training center in the Carolinas (North, I think) that members can send their Tech's to for specific training. https://cfesa.com/events-courses/  is the schedule and registration info.

[gregct]

The main indication is that you let the magic smoke out of the wires….

[gregct]

According to what I've found on that Robershaw series, its for a gas furnace burner, so if its in a piece of cooking equipment it would probably be in a large, possibly obsolete, baking oven that takes roll-in racks. Think towards the older Bakers Aid, Adamatic, Cutler and Revent and even some custom built units in older facilties.. Most used burners designed and produced for heating furnaces and were bought by the oven manufactures directly from the same  burner manufactures(think Rheem, Eclipse, etc) supplying the furnace manufactures and just installed as complete assemblies in the ovens. Robertshaw usually doesn't distribute ‘cross-service' to their suppliers, so your customer may need to go thru a heating furnace parts supplier to obtain that series control. 

[gregct]

Blodget's blower wheel puller was always a time saver….   Frymaster's Microamp to millivolt converter was indespensible, too… wish I still had one…

[gregct]

Ours have been prone to the insulation block around the probe tube failing, causing premature failure of the temp probe. Not a fun repair. Two ways to check, look into the sightglass on the left hand side into the combustion chamber, you should see the block of insulation just in front of the burner, cracks or broken pieces of the block will glow brighter than the rest. The other is to pull the probe, then run for a few minutes and observe the tube with an inspection mirror, if the probe tube starts glowing cherry red, the block has failed and you'll have to drop the combustion chamber pan to replace it. Cleveland has a full insulation kit, as well as just the blocks.

There is also a small insulation ‘washer'/gasket that goes with the adaptor that makes the temp probe a twist-lock, if that insulation is damaged or missing it also can cause temp issues.

Cracks in the burner usually lead to misfires, delayed ignition etc and that is usually the cause for the insulation block failing, more often than not, we've had to replace the burner at the same time as the insulation. 

[gregct]

That LOOKS like a custom Town unit…. Town Food | Food Service Equipment | Asian cooking Equipment  their customer service people are pretty good and can probably help you out ID'ing it..

[gregct]

The bigger problem I've seen over the years is people not using the high temp thermocouples, the nickle plated ones, when doing the conversion. A standard thermocouple (think RS “Snap-fit”) will not hold up, BASO nickle plates about the first 8-10″ over the copper and they hold up a lot better/longer.

[gregct]

If you have the original “Installation & Operation Manual” filed away somewhere, it will tell you which model as well the specific location of the data plate for the model to obtain the serial number for warranty registration. Most of the Vulcan units place it inside the right side panel facing the front.