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Ice-o-Matic Troubleshooting Starts with a Reset

Ice-o-Matic ice machines are simple, user-friendly machines that do one thing: make ice. If they stop making ice, the solution can be as simple as resetting the machine.

Understanding the problem lies in understanding the unit’s error light system. On the new Elevation series, three small lights at the bottom of the face panel, just above the ice bin door, tell you what you need to know.

During normal operation, the light is blue. When cleaning is needed, it flashes yellow. When the machine is not functioning, the light flashes red. Flashing both red and yellow signals a drain failure.

If the light flashes red, reset the Ice-o-Matic ice maker by turning it off and then on. On some modes (including the ICEU150, 220, 225, 226, 300 and 305), the switch is in the control box, behind the grills, on the front of the unit.

On the new Elevation series, it is behind the faceplate above the ice bin. Losen the two Phillips head screws at the base of the faceplate and lift the panel up and off. That exposes the two buttons above the flashing red light. Press them simultaneously until they turn green and yellow – about three seconds – to turn off the machine. To turn it back on, press the upper (on/off) button. Replace the cover.

Resetting the machine usually solves issues that may be triggered by allowing the machine to site unused for a while, after experiencing a power surge, being jostled by cleaning, or by being moved.

If the machine doesn’t start making ice after a reset and the red light still flashes, there’s another problem. Ice-o-Matic says a flashing red light signals a thermistor failure. The thermistor is a temperature-sensitive resistor that measures temperature. It works hand-in-hand with the temperature controller. Malfunctions regarding temperature can prevent ice machines from making ice.

Related issues also may prevent ice from being made or from dropping. For example, normally, the static bin control shuts off when the ice bin is filled. If it doesn’t – or if it doesn’t come back on as the ice is depleted – adjust the bin controller. To do this, locate the bin thermostat sensor – the thermistor – below the evaporator where the ice forms. Rub the brass rod with a cloth and hot water. If the heat causes the machine to come on, temperature regulation is the problem.

Some users have reported that water won’t shut off after a reset. That can occur when a power surge or reset causes the unit to purge the water line. Alternatively, water may be leaking from the purge drain or water trough.

If water continues to run, inspect the harvest cover to see whether it closes completely and is not obstructed by ice. Also check the float valve to ensure it is set correctly and, if it is, check the pan or the pump. (If the unit is mid-cycle, open the control box and set the unit to “wash” for 10 minutes to clear the cycle. Clear the unit of all cleaning solvents, and then set it back to freeze.)

Storing the unit without properly decommissioning it can create problems, too. Aside from rodents and insects choosing the unit for a home, some older units use a solenoid valve for water. If it receives power longer than the timer allows or is held open by the valve, this could cause overflows.

See if the solenoid valve is magnetized by touching a screwdriver to the top of the solenoid and feeing for a draw or high frequency vibration. If there is no power, remove the valve and clean it of any residual minerals that may have come lose inside the valve.

When recommissioning an ice maker, disassemble and clean the evaporator trays, water nozzles and/or manifold, pump area, and sump. Use the “wash” button and be sure to rinse and sanitize the complete interior. Make sure the unit is level, the water temperature is below 70°F, and the water pressure between 20 and 60 psi.

Good luck!

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